One other thing I would like to
bring with me from Pécs is a bakery.
This is even more ambitious than bringing back a car, I know. Let me tell you, dear reader, what prompts my
sincere admiration of Pécs’s bakeries.
First of all, Pécs is full of them. They are nearly on every corner in certain
parts of town. My favorite is called
Aranycipó, or “Golden Wheat”: a corny
name, but a delicious place. They have
fresh bread every day, ranging from soft and white to crusty and sour to brown
and heavy. The crusty, brown ones are my
favorite. Ordinarily, I don’t really
like bread but in Pécs (and my childhood hometown of San Francisco) it is hard
to resist because it is so fresh and good and nutritious. My favorite, the “King Ludwig Rye,” named
after the eccentric Bavarian
king, Ludwig II, is a rye-wheat mix, that turns
out brown and a bit sour, with a crusty crust.
Like in a pint of Guinness, you can taste the B vitamins in every
bite. This is no tasteless bread, that
can sit in your pantry for weeks without hardening or growing mold. This is a bread you must eat now or else it
will quickly turn to stone: carpe panem.
(I mean to say: seize the bread, but I haven’t studied Latin since the 9th
grade.)
scrumptious... |
Aranycipó also has lots of good
Hungarian pastries, sandwiches, and a little café downtown where you can sit,
drink coffee, and consume baked goods.
In Oshkosh, the only independent bakery shop that I knew of closed
recently, and anyhow they did not sell bread, only sweet things. Nor were they a hang-out place. Now, the bakery shops that are left are
inside of supermarkets. They have some
good baked goods,
including some good bread, but no place to sit down.
bread sold here... cafe around the corner... |
While I can still find some
more-or-less freshly baked bread in Oshkosh, it seems to be a niche
market. In Pécs, it is a staple. Much of it is a soft, white bread that I
really don’t like, but it is almost all freshly baked. Rich or poor, gourmand or grub-seeker,
Hungarians all seem to buy fresh bread almost every day.
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